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Rick Stein's Leek Cannelloni Reloaded

Rowland Coping, Thursday 6th April 2023

It was 30th December 2006, and your brave hero was on a bold mission to cook a nice Leek Cannelloni for his girlfriend (from a recipe book and everything). What should have been an occasion of joy turned into an endless nightmare, thwarted by friends, unhelpful North London shopkeepers, and Rick Stein himself. And the very mention of lemon thyme still brings me out in chills.

But recently I have been led to think, surely I would have been more successful in glossy modern Britain, where shops abound with stock from all over the world and our whole society is richer and more diverse? Surely I could do a better job, with my vastly improved skill and knowledge?

Well, Rowland fans, it's time to find out. So strap yourselves in, perhaps even drop me the odd message to pad out my content, and enjoy the spectacle which is the hastily assembled Rick Stein's Leek Cannelloni Reloaded!!!!


Rick Stein, Leek Cannelloni, lemon thyme


Friday 7th April
11:30

As I wake up this morning (just), I'm asking serious questions of myself. I can understand why I might want to re-do, say, my Maths A-Level, all my career choices since, or this entire website... but the Cannelloni?

Lemon thyme still haunts my dreams. I can think of nothing right now other than where the hell I might find any. In Aberystwyth of all places. Much as I love (hate) the supermarkets here, it seems unlikley they will have any given their inability to stock basic staples.

There is also the concern that people might think I have no ideas for content, other than repeatedly re-creating Rick Stein's Leek Canneloni. But that isn't true. In fact the reason for this is that it squares the circle for this website. It's unfinished business, and it's time to finish it.

13:10

So this time, I'm not going on any wild goose chases. I'm doing my research, starting with the supermarkets. Honestly, I don't hold out much hope. There's Morrissons and Tesco, who essentially have the same supplier and who rarely have anything more exotic than basil in (and sometimes not even that..). Then there is Lidl. I don't even. No they won't will they... but you never know. I'm safely discounting Home Bargains and Iceland on the grounds that lemon thyme is extremely unlikely to appeal to their target demographic.

13:16

Right, first up Morrissons. A quick search reveals that of course they don't have it. Curiously though they do have a couple of tuna based products which feature lemon and thyme. I'm not sure that this is the same thing though. I'm still awaiting physical proof that lemon thyme exists. It looks like it would go great with tuna.

13:20

Ok so next stop Tesco. This online malarkey is saving me a lot of heartache you know. Now they also do not stock lemon thyme, but they do have a roast potato option, which again seems to be a mix of lemon and thyme rather than the elusive magic herb itself. That's annoying, I could have bought them and scraped it off otherwise. I'm also holding that thought.

Lidl do not have a search facility, which actually puts their website behind mine in terms of technical sophistication. That's a win. I don't think I'll be going there in person. Life is too short.

13:28

I'm going to eat some beans on toast and have a think about this. I might also check the recipe, given I haven't so much as looked at it for 15 years. Perhaps lemon thyme is just a figment of my imagination, a fever dream?

13:46

Ok so I know the contact form doesn't work. I mean I tested this not a month ago. The internet hates me. Give me 5 minutes!

13:59

OK so the contact form now works, please contact me. I'm lonely.

In the meantime, I've been researching options. Apparently there are multiple independent food shops that will never have heard of lemon thyme in Aberystwyth.

All that remains to me is to visit them all in turn, and suck up the inevitable disappointment. However, this is a lot better than last time. For one thing, it's not lashing down with rain in the dead of winter, it's a lovely day. I'm also in a nice seaside town instead of a kitchen sink estate in North London. And finally, I've left the best part of the afternoon for this task. I'm ready.

14:08

Provolone piccante???? What the hell is provolone piccante? I don't remember that. Fortunately Rick Stein has provided alternatives. And yet he seems so confident anyone can just pop down their local Spar and pick up some lemon thyme.

14:36

Right so I have a list of ingredients, and I'm ready to go on safari among the day-trippers from the West Midlands who frequent Aberystwyth on bank holiday occasions. Fear not though, this will be my first location based live blog, and the fun won't be curtailed for a second!

Before I go out in public though, this from Rudi Volumini:

"I have been a keen follower of your work for some time and am mindful that some of your most striking creations have been assisted by afternoon cocktails. I was wondering if you were getting tanked up as you went?
Lov n hugs Rudi"

Oh I wish I was, Rudi. Unfortunately certain legal stipulations involving the control of a motor vehicle will curtail such activities whilst I'm out and about. Once I'm doing the cooking though, all bets are off.

14:59

Right, first stop, Agnelli's Italian Deli. Honestly, until this morning I didn't realise there was such a thing here. But this is promising. Here goes!

15:08

Unbelievably, the excellent Italian deli owner managed to supply me with the cheese! He also confirmed the existence of lemon thyme. Unfortunately he told me the only way he could get hold of it was to grow it in his back garden. He has provided me with a lead to a health food shop, and given me something of an idea...

15:18

My lead from the Italian man has led me here. Understandably perhaps, I'm not optimistic. But I also feel a strange frissant of excitement.

15:23

Well, that's a no from the health food shop. The staff were flummoxed. Meanwhile, a hint of dissent from an interested party, namely Ffi:

"It's hot in Aber, the tourists are a plenty and I would suggest maybe just googling what I should use instead of lemon thyme. I mean maybe we just go for a beer and crispy fried chicken after instead?"

She should know by now I tend to see things through to the bitter, bitter end. That said, not a bad shout...

15:29

OK I have 2 more places on my shortlist but I suspect they won't yield dividends. As such, I'm reverting to plan 'z' after a quick trip to Tesco for the rest of the loot. Meanwhile a note from MJ:

"Do you know where the Deli owner lives? I sense a solution"

Well he was quite busy running his shop... or do you mean... really? I feel like shimmying over a nice Italian man's back wall and pilfering his prize herbs would be a new low, even for me.

15:39

Ah, Tesco... slightly less awful than Morrisons for range and price, slightly more awful for everything else. Meanwhile, a message from Kant H8R:

"Question from a concerned citizen: Will this cannelloni take three hours like the last one? Also, lemon thyme probably is not real. Rick Stein made it up to sound posher."

Well the recipe looks quite straightforward... but I may have said that before. Before I met the Italian man I'd be inclined to agree with you. Although no idea where Rick gets it from in Padstow.

15:42

Since my phone is about to die, I'll share details of my masterplan when I get back to the car. It's awesome, and also doomed to failure.

16:08

Yeeessss, it's the garden centre! I'm a genius! Obviously.

16:14

So growing it isn't an option. Would have been a stretch to get the job done in the next two hours mind. Which leaves...

16:18

Nope, not here either. Lemon Thyme substitute it is. To be honest, I could easily have just skipped all the intervening stages. But isn't this just great content?

16:36

OK everything is ready! The wine wasn't strictly part of the recipe, but I feel it will play a key role. Apparently lemon zest and thyme are an adequate lemon thyme substitute. But I'm sure it's not quite the same. And yes I had obviously bought that before I went to the garden centre. Failure was a certainty.

17:23

Time for a quick pint by the seafront? I'm sure it couldn't hurt.

19:08

Right, here goes. Nope, this blog doesn't stop here. It's time to actually make the stuff. It's time. Am I drunk enough for you??? AM I???

19:16

Errrr, anyone remember which page it was on?

19:21

Right, first I have to stud an onion with 3 cloves and infuse with some milk. I'm using 4 because I like symmetry. I can already tell this is going to be a long night.

19:31

Right, so the tomato sauce... I actually forgot that was also a thing. So I'm softening onion and garlic, whilst infusing the milk. This is multitasking. I feel like I'm already kicking my former self in the arse

And yes, I know the hob needs a clean. I'm a busy man, don't you know.

19:57

So, for lemon thyme I went for a bit of lemon zest and some regular thyme. I have no idea how accurate a substitution this is, since I have nothing to compare it with. This is meant to cook in with the leeks for 15 minutes, until they are soft. To me, that seems an optimistic timescale.

20:05

I don't know how many pans Rick has in his kitchen, but it's more than I can manage. I now need to reduce some red wine vinegar and caster sugar for the tomato sauce, whilst also parboiling some lasagna sheets. I'm already out of pans. I may need to improvise here.

20:25

So, uh, just going to parboil the lasagne again on account of it turning to a lumpy clod of carbs. Reviewing the recipe, Rick did specify adding it one sheet at a time. Sadly, this isn't his fault at all. The red wine vinegar mix also went somewhat solid, but I went with it.

20:34

You know what, there are a lot of processes involved in this. I feel like I'm getting nearer to the end though. Thank God none of my neighbours have shown up. It happens less once you get in your 40s to be fair. It's only been an hour and a half so far... is that a win?

20:47

What I can say, for an absolute certainty, is the last time I cooked this dish it bore no resemblance to this whatsoever. I view this as a good sign. Just the cheese sauce to go now.

21:11

This actually looks ace. I hope the lack of lemon thyme doesn't ruin it.

I am actually asking myself the question, of all the recipes in Rick Stein's food heroes, why I went for this one? It seems, on the face of it, a bizarre choice. Was I having a vegetarian phase?

The most likely answer is the magnificent enchiladas in they used to serve in the hotel at Monkton, but I feel that is a whole other conversation.

21:37

It definitely never looked like that. And this means that the Rowland of today is the winner!

22:01

You know what, that was actually really delicious. I still think it needed lemon thyme.

One final word from Bonnie:

"Wonders if I will beat Bonnie before we eat..."

I may have left my girlfriend playing the Red Dead Redemption tutorial - providing her with entertainment is another sign of how I've grown. However, she had given up on it long before the emergence of dinner. But at least she ate well... eventually.

I'll see you all on coronation day, for another live blog epic. Until then, love and hugs xx